TROUBLESHOOTING

Outdoor Light Not Working: Troubleshooting Guide

Your outdoor light has stopped working. This guide covers every common cause — from moisture ingress and sensor faults to cable damage and LED driver failure — tells you what to check yourself, and explains when to call an electrician.

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14 min readUpdated 2026-05-18Andrew Moore, Founder of Elec-Mate

Written and reviewed by Andrew Moore, founder of Elec-Mate, against BS 7671:2018+A4:2026, IET Guidance Note 3 and the IET On-Site Guide.

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Key Takeaways

  • 1Moisture ingress is the single most common cause of outdoor light failure. Water enters through cracked lenses, degraded seals, or damaged cable glands, causing short circuits, earth faults, and corrosion of internal components.
  • 2Photocell sensors (for dusk-to-dawn operation) and PIR motion sensors are exposed to weather and degrade over time. A faulty photocell may keep the light off permanently, while a faulty PIR may stop detecting motion.
  • 3SWA (Steel Wire Armoured) cable, commonly used for outdoor circuits, can be damaged by garden digging, ground movement, or corrosion of the armour. A damaged SWA cable can cause complete power loss or RCD tripping.
  • 4Outdoor circuits are particularly prone to RCD tripping because of earth faults caused by moisture. Under Regulation 411.3.3 of BS 7671, socket outlets rated up to 32A require RCD protection with a rated residual operating current not exceeding 30mA.
  • 5LED driver failure is increasingly common as outdoor LED lights age. The LED driver (transformer) is the component most likely to fail, not the LEDs themselves. Driver replacement or full fitting replacement is usually needed.
  • 6Corrosion at junction boxes, terminal blocks, and cable glands is a slow-acting but common cause of outdoor light failure. Corroded connections increase resistance, generate heat, and eventually fail open-circuit.
01 · Troubleshooting

Why Is My Outdoor Light Not Working?

Your outdoor light has stopped working — the security light does not come on, the garden lights are dark, or the porch light is dead. Outdoor lights face challenges that indoor lights do not: rain, frost, UV exposure, temperature swings, and insects — all of which take a toll on electrical fittings over time.

The cause could be as simple as a tripped breaker or a failed bulb, or as complex as a damaged underground cable or a corroded junction box buried in a garden wall. Outdoor electrical faults also carry a higher safety risk because of the combination of electricity and water.

This guide covers every common cause of outdoor light failure, explains what you can check yourself safely, and tells you when to call an electrician. If you are an electrician, the later sections cover outdoor circuit fault finding and the specific challenges of weatherproof installations.

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02 · Troubleshooting

Quick Checks You Can Do Yourself

Before investigating further, rule out the simple causes:

1. Check the consumer unit

Check whether the MCB or RCD for the outdoor circuit has tripped. If the outdoor lights share a circuit with indoor lights, the shared MCB may have tripped. Reset and see if it holds.

2. Check the switch and timer

Outdoor lights may be controlled by an indoor switch, a timer, a photocell, or a combination. Check that the switch is on, the timer is set correctly, and (for photocell lights) it is actually dark enough to trigger the sensor. Some photocells have a sensitivity adjustment.

3. Check the bulb or LED

If the fitting uses a replaceable bulb, try a new one. For integrated LED fittings where the LED is not replaceable separately, the whole fitting or the LED driver module may need replacing.

4. Look for visible damage

Check the light fitting for cracked lenses, missing gaskets, water inside the fitting (visible condensation behind the lens), corroded screws, or damaged cable entries. Any of these can allow water in, causing the failure.

03 · Troubleshooting

IP Rating Failure and Moisture Ingress

Moisture ingress is the number one cause of outdoor light failure. Every outdoor light fitting has an IP (Ingress Protection) rating that indicates its resistance to water and dust. When the seals, gaskets, or enclosure degrade, the IP protection fails and water gets in.

  • Degraded seals and gaskets — rubber and silicone seals harden and crack with UV exposure and temperature cycling. After 3 to 5 years outdoors, most seals have significantly reduced effectiveness. Water then enters through the seal-to-body joint.
  • Cracked lenses — polycarbonate and glass lenses can crack from impact, thermal stress, or UV degradation. Even a hairline crack allows water to enter during rain and condense inside the fitting.
  • Cable gland failure — the cable gland at the entry point of the fitting is critical. If it is loose, the wrong size for the cable, or has perished, water runs down the cable and into the fitting. This is a very common fault and easy to miss during visual inspection.
  • Condensation build-up — even without a direct water leak, temperature changes cause condensation inside outdoor fittings. Sealed fittings trap moisture, which accumulates over time and eventually reaches electrical components.

When water reaches the internal terminals or driver, it causes short circuits (tripping the MCB), earth faults (tripping the RCD), or corrosion of components (gradual failure). The fix is usually to replace the fitting with a new one of adequate IP rating, ensuring all cable entries are properly sealed.

04 · Troubleshooting

Photocell and PIR Sensor Faults

Many outdoor lights incorporate sensors for automatic operation. These sensors are the most exposed electronic components and are common failure points:

Photocell (Light Sensor) Faults

Photocells detect ambient light levels and switch the light on at dusk and off at dawn. Common faults include:

  • Sensor window covered in dirt, algae, or cobwebs — clean it first
  • Sensor degraded by UV exposure — reads light level incorrectly
  • Sensor failed "off" — light never comes on regardless of darkness
  • Sensor affected by nearby light source (e.g., street light) — thinks it is always daytime

PIR (Passive Infrared) Sensor Faults

PIR sensors detect body heat (infrared radiation) from people and animals moving within their detection zone. Common faults include:

  • Lens clouded or scratched — reduced sensitivity and range
  • Spider webs across the sensor — triggers false activations or blocks detection
  • Sensor aimed incorrectly — detection zone does not cover the desired area
  • Internal electronics failed — no detection at all, or permanently triggered
05 · Troubleshooting

SWA Cable Damage

SWA (Steel Wire Armoured) cable is the standard cable type for outdoor underground circuits in the UK. It has a tough steel wire armour layer that provides mechanical protection and acts as the circuit protective conductor (earth). Despite its toughness, SWA cable can be damaged:

  • Garden digging — the most common cause of SWA damage. A spade, rotavator, or fence post driver can cut through SWA cable buried at insufficient depth. Building Regulations require a minimum 500mm burial depth, but older installations may be shallower.
  • Ground movement — subsidence, tree root growth, or frost heave can stress the cable and damage the insulation, particularly at joints and entries.
  • Corroded glands — the SWA glands at each end of the cable connect the steel armour to the earthing system. Corrosion of the glands can break the earth path, creating a safety hazard even if the circuit continues to work.
  • Water ingress through glands — if the gland seal fails, water enters the cable at the termination point and can track along inside the cable sheath, causing insulation breakdown some distance from the entry point.
06 · Troubleshooting

RCD Tripping from Earth Fault

Outdoor lights are one of the most common causes of RCD tripping in UK homes. The combination of electrical equipment and weather exposure means earth faults are frequent.

Under Regulation 411.3.3 of BS 7671, additional protection by an RCD with a rated residual operating current not exceeding 30mA is required for socket outlets rated up to 32A and for mobile equipment rated up to 32A used outdoors. Outdoor lighting circuits should also have RCD protection as good practice, and this will be required where the circuit supplies socket outlets or where specified by the designer.

Common Earth Fault Sources in Outdoor Lighting

  • Water inside a light fitting — creates a conductive path between live parts and the earthed metal body
  • Damaged SWA cable — insulation breakdown allows current to leak through the steel armour to earth
  • Waterlogged junction box — buried or exposed junction boxes that have filled with water
  • Failed LED driver — internal insulation breakdown in the driver allows current to leak to the metal housing

If your outdoor lights trip the RCD, the fault needs to be found and repaired — not simply reset repeatedly. Each RCD trip indicates current flowing through an unintended path, which could be dangerous.

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07 · Troubleshooting

LED Driver Failure

Most modern outdoor lights use LED technology, and the LED driver (also called the transformer or power supply) is the component most likely to fail. LEDs themselves are very long-lived, but the electronic driver that converts mains voltage to the low voltage the LEDs need is more vulnerable.

  • Thermal stress — LED drivers contain electrolytic capacitors that degrade with heat. Outdoor lights experience wide temperature swings (freezing winter nights to hot summer afternoons in direct sun), accelerating capacitor degradation.
  • Moisture damage — even small amounts of moisture reaching the driver PCB can cause component failure or corrosion of solder joints. This is the most common cause of premature LED driver failure in outdoor fittings.
  • Voltage spikes — mains voltage transients (from switching, lightning, or supply fluctuations) can damage the input stage of the driver. Quality drivers have surge protection; cheap ones do not.
  • Thermal shutdown — some drivers have thermal protection that shuts the light off when the driver overheats, then resets when it cools. This causes intermittent operation — the light works for a while, goes off, then comes back on.

In some fittings, the driver is replaceable separately — look for a model number on the driver and source a replacement. In many integrated LED fittings, the driver is built in and the entire fitting must be replaced when the driver fails.

08 · Troubleshooting

Timer and Dusk-to-Dawn Module Faults

Outdoor lights are often controlled by timers or dusk-to-dawn modules that automate their operation. When these controllers fail, the light may not operate at all, stay on permanently, or operate at the wrong times:

  • Digital timer lost settings — after a power cut, many digital timers lose their programmed on/off times and revert to factory defaults (which may be "off" at all times). Reprogram the timer after any power interruption.
  • Mechanical timer jammed — older mechanical timers (with pins or segments) can jam due to dirt, corrosion, or a worn motor. The timer stops advancing and the light stays in whatever state it was in when the timer stopped.
  • Dusk-to-dawn module failure — these are essentially photocells in a separate module, usually mounted on the consumer unit rail or near the outdoor circuit. They fail the same way as built-in photocells — sensor degradation, dirt on the sensor window, or electronic failure.
  • Astronomical timer drift — some modern timers calculate sunrise and sunset times based on location. If the location is set incorrectly, or the timer's internal clock has drifted, the on/off times will be wrong. Reset and reconfigure.
09 · Troubleshooting

Corrosion at Junction Boxes

Corrosion is the silent killer of outdoor electrical installations. It works slowly — sometimes over years — but eventually causes connection failure. Junction boxes, terminal blocks, and cable glands are the most vulnerable points.

Where Corrosion Strikes

  • Terminal screws and connector blocks — brass and steel screws corrode in damp conditions, increasing resistance at the connection. The connection may work intermittently as corrosion builds up and flakes off.
  • Earth connections — the earth terminal is often the first to corrode because it is typically the most exposed. A corroded earth connection means the safety circuit is compromised — the RCD may not trip fast enough in a fault condition.
  • SWA glands — the glands connecting the SWA cable armour to the enclosure earth corrode over time, particularly in coastal or industrial environments. Corroded glands can break the earth continuity.
  • Dissimilar metal corrosion — aluminium fittings with steel screws, or copper conductors in steel terminal blocks, create galvanic corrosion that accelerates in wet conditions. Use appropriate materials and anti-corrosion compound.
10 · Troubleshooting

When to Call an Electrician

Outdoor electrical work carries higher risk than indoor work because of weather exposure. Here is when to call a professional:

  • Urgent — the outdoor light trips the RCD (affecting other circuits), you can see exposed wiring or damaged cable, there is a burning smell from any outdoor fitting or junction box, or the SWA cable has been damaged by digging.
  • Soon — the outdoor light does not work and the simple checks have not identified the cause, the light works intermittently, or you can see water inside a light fitting.
  • Routine — you want to replace an outdoor light fitting, add new outdoor lighting, or have the outdoor circuit checked as part of a general inspection.

An electrician will test insulation resistance on the outdoor circuit, check all connections and IP-rated enclosures, verify RCD protection is present and operational, and ensure cables are properly routed and protected. They should issue a Minor Works Certificate for any repair or replacement work.

11 · Troubleshooting

For Electricians: Outdoor Lighting Fault Finding

Outdoor circuit faults require a methodical approach, particularly because access to buried cables and remote fittings can be challenging:

1. Isolate the Outdoor Circuit

Test insulation resistance at the consumer unit end of the outdoor circuit (500V DC, L-E, N-E, L-N). This immediately tells you whether the fault is in the cable/fittings or at the supply end. Low IR readings on the outdoor circuit confirm a cable or fitting fault. Disconnect fittings one at a time to isolate which section has the fault.

2. Inspect All IP-Rated Enclosures

Open every outdoor junction box, fitting, and enclosure. Check for water ingress, corrosion, damaged seals, and loose connections. Pay particular attention to cable glands — incorrect gland size or missing seals are extremely common on outdoor installations. Check SWA gland tightness and armour earth continuity at each termination.

3. SWA Cable Testing

Test SWA cable insulation resistance between each conductor and the armour, and between conductors. Test the armour continuity separately — the armour is the CPC and must have good continuity end-to-end. If IR readings are low, the cable is compromised and likely needs replacement. Use a cable locator to trace the route before any excavation.

4. Repair and Certify

Replace damaged fittings with appropriate IP-rated units. Ensure all glands are correct size and properly sealed. Verify RCD protection is present — if not, recommend installation. Test the completed circuit (IR, Zs, RCD operation time). Issue a Minor Works Certificate documenting the fault, repair, and test results.

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