TROUBLESHOOTING

Storage Heater Not Working: Causes and Fixes

Cold storage heaters? This guide explains how they work, what the input and output controls do, why your off-peak supply might have failed, and when you need an electrician.

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12 min readUpdated 2026-06-10Andrew Moore, Founder of Elec-Mate

Written and reviewed by Andrew Moore, founder of Elec-Mate, against BS 7671:2018+A4:2026, IET Guidance Note 3 and the IET On-Site Guide.

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Why is my storage heater not working?

The most common reason a storage heater is cold is that it did not charge overnight. Check the input (charge) dial is turned up before bedtime, then check the off-peak circuit MCB in the consumer unit. If every heater is cold but the rest of your power works, the off-peak supply — the time switch, radio teleswitch or smart meter switching — has likely failed, which needs an electrician or your energy supplier.

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Key Takeaways

  • 1Storage heaters charge overnight using off-peak electricity (Economy 7 or Economy 10) and release stored heat during the day. If your storage heater is cold, the first thing to check is whether it charged overnight — the input control must be turned up before bedtime.
  • 2The most common cause of a cold storage heater is the input dial being set to zero or too low. The input control must be set high enough for the heater to store sufficient heat overnight. The output control regulates how quickly stored heat is released during the day.
  • 3Storage heaters require a dedicated off-peak circuit, separate from the normal power circuits. This circuit is controlled by a time switch or teleswitch that only provides power during off-peak hours.
  • 4Element failure is common in older storage heaters. Elements are embedded in thermal bricks and cannot be easily replaced on most models — a failed element usually means replacing the entire heater.
  • 5If none of your storage heaters are working, the most likely cause is a fault with the off-peak supply — the time switch, teleswitch, or the off-peak meter may have failed. Check whether the off-peak circuit MCB has tripped.
  • 6Storage heater circuits are dedicated fixed-wiring circuits and must have overcurrent protection correctly rated for the cable size and connected load in accordance with Part 4 of BS 7671. A storage heater is a space heating appliance, so it is a hardwired final circuit rather than a socket-outlet — the additional 30 mA RCD requirement of Reg 411.3.3 (socket-outlets rated not exceeding 32 A) is not triggered by the appliance itself.
01 · Troubleshooting

Why Is My Storage Heater Not Working?

Storage heaters are the primary heating system in many UK homes, particularly flats and properties without gas. When they stop working — especially in winter — it is urgent.

The good news is that storage heaters are mechanically simple. The bad news is that diagnosing faults requires understanding how they charge, how the off-peak electricity supply works, and what the controls do. This guide covers all of it.

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02 · Troubleshooting

How Storage Heaters Work

A storage heater is fundamentally a box of thermal bricks with electric heating elements embedded inside them. During the off-peak period (typically midnight to 7am on Economy 7), the elements heat the bricks to a high temperature. During the day, the stored heat radiates out into the room.

  • Thermal bricks — dense clay or ceramic bricks that can store a large amount of heat energy. They are heated overnight and slowly release that heat during the day through natural radiation and convection.
  • Heating elements — resistive elements embedded in or between the thermal bricks. Typically rated at 1.7kW to 3.4kW depending on the heater size. Multiple elements may be fitted, controlled individually.
  • Input control — determines how much heat is stored. A higher setting allows more current to the elements during the off-peak period, storing more heat. Adjusted based on the weather forecast.
  • Output control — a damper flap or, on modern units, a fan that controls how quickly the stored heat is released into the room. A lower output makes the heat last longer.

Typical storage heater sizes and loads

Storage heaters are sized to the room. The figures below are indicative of common domestic models — always confirm the actual rating from the appliance data plate before sizing the cable and protective device.

Heater size
Typical element load
Approx. current at 230 V
Small (single room)
1.7 kW
~7.4 A
Medium
2.55 kW
~11 A
Large
3.4 kW
~14.8 A

Several heaters are usually grouped on one off-peak distribution board, so the diversity and total connected load — not a single heater — determine the supply cable and main off-peak protective device.

03 · Troubleshooting

Common Causes of Failure

Storage heater faults fall into two categories: problems with the heater itself and problems with the off-peak supply.

Input dial set to zero

The single most common cause of a cold storage heater. If the input is at zero, no charging occurs overnight. Turn it up to 3-5 (out of 5) in cold weather before bedtime.

Off-peak circuit MCB tripped

The circuit breaker for the off-peak supply may have tripped. Check the consumer unit — there will be a separate MCB (or pair of MCBs) for the off-peak circuits.

Time switch or teleswitch fault

The off-peak supply is controlled by a time switch or radio teleswitch. If this device fails, no power reaches the heaters during the off-peak period. This requires an electrician or your energy supplier.

Element failure

Elements are embedded in the thermal bricks and fail over time. A heater with one failed element out of two will still produce some heat but noticeably less. When all elements fail, the heater is dead.

Thermostat failure

The charge thermostat limits the maximum temperature of the bricks. If it fails open, the heater does not charge. If it fails closed, the heater could overheat — though a thermal cutout provides secondary protection.

04 · Troubleshooting

Understanding the Controls

Many storage heater problems are caused by misunderstanding the controls. Here is a clear explanation:

Quick input/output setting guide

Weather
Input (charge) — set the night before
Output (release) — adjust through the day
Cold / frosty
4 to 5 (or max)
Low in the morning, open up from midday
Mild
2 to 3
Low, open only when in the room
Warm / unoccupied
0 to 1
Closed

Dial numbers vary by make and model — these are general guides, not precise temperatures. The golden rule: the input only affects the next overnight charge, so turning it up in the morning does nothing for that day.

Input (charge) control

Usually a dial numbered 1 to 5 (or 1 to 6). This must be set BEFORE the off-peak period starts. In cold weather, set to 4 or 5. In mild weather, 1 or 2. Setting it to zero means no heat is stored. Changing the input during the day has no immediate effect — it only affects the next overnight charge.

Output (release) control

A flap or damper that controls heat release. Keep it closed (or on low) in the morning and open it gradually through the day. This makes the stored heat last. Opening the output fully in the morning will release all the heat quickly, leaving you cold by the afternoon.

Boost (some models)

Some modern storage heaters have a convector boost element that uses peak-rate electricity for immediate top-up heat. This is expensive to run but useful for occasional cold snaps. It is separate from the main storage elements.

05 · Troubleshooting

Economy 7 and Off-Peak Supply

Storage heaters depend on off-peak electricity — a cheaper tariff available during designated hours. The exact window depends on your tariff and supplier, and on whether your meter runs on local clock time. Common patterns are shown below.

Tariff
Off-peak hours
How it suits storage heaters
Economy 7
7 hours overnight (often around midnight–7am)
Single overnight charge — the classic storage heater tariff
Economy 10
10 hours split across night, afternoon and evening
Allows an afternoon top-up charge as well as overnight

Off-peak rates are typically cheaper than the standard daytime rate, but the peak-rate units on these tariffs are usually dearer than a single-rate tariff — they only pay off if most of your usage is genuinely off-peak. Check your latest tariff for the exact times and prices.

The off-peak supply is typically controlled by one of these methods:

  • Time switch — a clock-operated switch in or near the consumer unit that connects the off-peak circuit during the programmed hours. If the clock is wrong or the switch has failed, the off-peak circuit does not receive power.
  • Radio teleswitch — receives a signal from the energy supplier (broadcast via BBC Radio 4 long wave) to switch the off-peak circuit on and off. Older technology that is being phased out. If the teleswitch fails, contact your energy supplier.
  • Smart meter — modern smart meters can control off-peak switching directly. If you have a smart meter and your off-peak supply is not working, contact your energy supplier.

If all your storage heaters are cold but the rest of your electricity works, the off-peak supply control is the first thing to investigate.

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06 · Troubleshooting

What to Check Yourself

Use the symptom below to jump to the most likely cause before you start poking around the consumer unit.

Symptom
Most likely cause / first check
One heater cold, others fine
That heater's input dial, then element/thermostat — call an electrician to test
All heaters cold, rest of the home has power
Off-peak supply: off-peak MCB, time switch or teleswitch
Warm by morning, cold by afternoon
Input set too low, or output opened too far too early
Never warm despite high input setting
Charge thermostat or element failure, or no off-peak charge reaching the heater
Off-peak MCB trips when reset
Circuit fault — stop and call an electrician

1. Input dial setting

Check that the input is turned up. In winter, set it to 4 or 5. Wait for the next overnight charge period before concluding there is a fault.

2. Consumer unit

Check the off-peak circuit MCB. It may be labelled "off-peak", "storage heaters", or "Economy 7". If it has tripped, reset it once. If it trips again, stop and call an electrician — a repeatedly tripping breaker is signalling a real fault, not a nuisance.

3. Time switch

If visible, check that the time switch clock shows the correct time. After power cuts, the clock may need resetting. Some time switches have a manual override — try it.

4. Individual heater check

If some heaters work but one does not, the fault is with that individual heater (element or thermostat failure) rather than the supply.

07 · Troubleshooting

When to Call an Electrician

Call an electrician if:

  • Off-peak MCB keeps tripping — indicates a fault on the off-peak circuit. Could be element insulation breakdown, wiring fault, or overloaded circuit.
  • Burning smell from a storage heater — isolate the circuit and call an electrician. Overheating connections or failed elements can be a fire risk.
  • None of the storage heaters are charging — if all heaters are cold despite correct settings, the off-peak supply or time switch has failed.
  • One heater is not working — likely an element or thermostat failure. An electrician can test the element resistance and insulation.
  • New storage heater installation — storage heaters must be hardwired to the off-peak circuit. This is electrical installation work requiring a qualified electrician.
08 · Troubleshooting

For Electricians: Storage Heater Circuits and Diagnosis

Storage heater work requires understanding of off-peak metering and dual-tariff installations:

1. Off-Peak Supply Diagnosis

Check the time switch or teleswitch for correct operation. Verify the off-peak contactor (if fitted) is engaging. Check voltage at the off-peak distribution board during the off-peak period. If the supply is controlled by a radio teleswitch and it has failed, the supplier needs to replace it.

2. Element Testing

Isolate the circuit. Disconnect the element wires. Test element resistance — should match the rated wattage (R = V squared / P). Test insulation resistance at 500V between element and earth — minimum 1 megohm. Low IR readings confirm insulation breakdown.

3. Replacement and Documentation

Modern storage heaters (Dimplex Quantum, Elnur, etc.) are significantly more efficient with fan-assisted heat release and automatic controls. When replacing, check the circuit capacity — modern high-output heaters may require a larger cable and MCB. Where the existing circuit is unaltered, a Minor Works Certificate (Reg 644.4.201) is appropriate. If the circuit cable or protective device is uprated, or a new circuit is provided, an Electrical Installation Certificate is required instead. In dwellings, the work may also be notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations.

4. Regulatory Requirements — Overheating and Building Regulations

A free-standing storage heater is a space heating appliance, so it is covered by the protection-against-overheating requirements of Chapter 42. Regulation 424.1 of BS 7671 states that locations containing space heating appliances must comply with the appropriate parts of the Building Regulations. Apply the general Chapter 42 principles: keep adequate clearance from combustible materials, and route wiring so that the heat output does not reduce the current-carrying capacity of nearby cables. Note that Section 753 (heating cables and embedded heating systems) is scoped to embedded surface heating — floors, ceilings, walls, de-icing and the like — so it does not apply to a free-standing storage heater appliance.

5. A4:2026 — AFDDs and Scope

Under BS 7671:2018+A4:2026, Regulation 421.1.7 requires arc fault detection devices (AFDDs) conforming to BS EN 62606 for single-phase AC final circuits supplying socket-outlets rated not exceeding 32 A in high rise residential buildings (HRRBs), houses in multiple occupation (HMOs), purpose-built student accommodation and care homes; for all other premises AFDDs are recommended on those socket-outlet circuits. Because the regulation is written around socket-outlet final circuits, it does not directly mandate an AFDD on a hardwired storage heater circuit — but the underlying fire-risk thinking is the same, so where AFDD protection is provided at the board it is sound practice to cover the off-peak heating circuits too, and to record the design decision.

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