Does a homebuyer's survey check the electrics?

No. A standard RICS Level 2 Homebuyer Survey or Level 3 Building Survey does not include a detailed electrical inspection or testing. The surveyor may note visible concerns (such as an old consumer unit or outdated wiring) as a prompt for further investigation, but they do not carry out continuity tests, insulation resistance tests, or earth fault loop impedance tests. To understand the true condition of the electrical installation, you need a separate EICR carried out by a qualified electrician.

What should I look for in the consumer unit when viewing a property?

Check whether the consumer unit (fuse box) has RCD protection — this is indicated by the presence of a residual current device, usually a wide switch in the centre of the unit. Older properties may have a rewirable fuse board with ceramic fuse holders, which predates modern protective devices. A consumer unit with a "Wylex" bayonet-style board or a split-load board without RCDs is a sign the installation may need upgrading. Modern consumer units installed after 2016 should have RCBO or dual RCD protection on all circuits.

How many sockets should each room have?

There is no minimum legal requirement for socket numbers, but as a guide: a bedroom should have at least four double sockets, a kitchen at least six double sockets (excluding the cooker circuit), a living room at least six double sockets, and a home office eight or more. Older properties often have only one or two single sockets per room — a sign of original wiring that has not been updated. Extension leads are not a safe long-term solution for chronic under-socketing.

What are the warning signs of dangerous DIY electrical work?

Warning signs include sockets or switches that are not flush with the wall, cables run on the surface in plastic trunking in unusual locations, junction boxes visible in ceilings or walls, mismatched socket and switch styles throughout the property, non-standard colours of cable or conduit, and consumer units with mixed-brand or non-standard breakers. DIY electrical work that has not been certified under Part P of the Building Regulations is a legal issue as well as a safety concern — it can affect your ability to sell the property and may invalidate your insurance.

What is the danger with pre-1966 rubber-insulated wiring?

Properties built before approximately 1966 may still have their original wiring insulated with vulcanised rubber (VIR — vulcanised india rubber) or early PVC. Rubber insulation becomes brittle and cracks with age and heat, causing the copper conductors to be exposed. This is a serious fire and shock risk. Original rubber-insulated wiring will almost certainly generate C1 (danger present) observations on an EICR. In most cases, the only remedy is a full rewire.

How much does a full house rewire cost in the UK?

A full rewire typically costs £3,500 to £5,500 for a two-bedroom property, £4,500 to £7,000 for a three-bedroom property, and £6,000 to £10,000 for a four-bedroom property. These costs include first and second fix wiring, consumer unit replacement, socket and switch replacement, and certification under BS 7671. They do not include redecoration after the electrician has chased channels in walls. Prices vary significantly by region — London and the South East are typically 20 to 30 per cent higher than the national average.

Can I use EICR findings to renegotiate the purchase price?

Yes, and this is one of the most practical uses of commissioning an EICR during a purchase. If the EICR reveals C1 or C2 observations, you have documented evidence of the cost of remedial work. You can request that the vendor either carries out the work before completion or reduces the purchase price by the cost of the work. Vendors are generally more willing to negotiate on the price than to manage the remedial work themselves. Get two or three quotes from electricians for the remedial work before presenting your case.

BUYER'S GUIDE

Buying a House Electrical Checklist UK: What to Check Before You Buy

Most buyers focus on kitchens and roof condition — but the electrical installation can be one of the most expensive things to put right. This guide covers what to check at viewings, how to read a consumer unit, pre-1966 wiring dangers, commissioning an EICR during purchase, and using the findings to negotiate.

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13 min readUpdated 2026-05-18Andrew Moore, Founder of Elec-Mate

Written and reviewed by Andrew Moore, founder of Elec-Mate, against BS 7671:2018+A4:2026, IET Guidance Note 3 and the IET On-Site Guide.

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Key Takeaways

1A homebuyer's survey does not include an electrical inspection. You must commission a separate Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) to understand the true condition of the wiring.
2At viewing, check the consumer unit age and type, count sockets per room, look for visible wiring in unusual materials (rubber, lead, fabric), and note any evidence of DIY electrical work.
3Properties built before 1966 may still have original wiring that is now at the end of its serviceable life. Pre-1966 rubber-insulated wiring is brittle, potentially dangerous, and will require a full rewire.
4A full house rewire typically costs £3,500 to £10,000 depending on property size. Factor this into your offer or ask the vendor to rectify before exchange.
5C1 and C2 observations on an EICR indicate dangerous or potentially dangerous conditions. A C1 finding gives you significant leverage to renegotiate the purchase price or require the vendor to carry out the remedial work.

01 · Buyer's Guide

What to Check at a Property Viewing

Most buyers focus on room sizes, the kitchen, and the condition of the roof at viewings. The electrical installation is rarely on anyone's checklist — yet it can be one of the most expensive things to put right. A few minutes spent on these checks during a viewing can save thousands of pounds later.

Find the consumer unit — usually in a hallway cupboard, utility room, or under the stairs. Note whether it has RCD protection (a wider toggle switch), whether it is a modern plastic unit or an old rewirable fuse board, and whether the casing is in good condition with no scorch marks.
Count the sockets per room — note how many socket outlets are present in each room and whether they appear modern. Single sockets or two-pin round-pin sockets are signs of very old wiring.
Look at visible wiring — check under the stairs and in any accessible loft space. Old rubber-insulated cables are dark brown or black and the insulation often appears dry and cracked. Lead-sheathed cables are grey and very heavy. Fabric-braided cables are grey or brown woven material.
Check light fittings — pull-cord switches in bathrooms and kitchen are appropriate; standard switches indicate non-compliant work. Look for shaver sockets in bathrooms — these should be BS EN 61558 shaver supply units, not standard sockets.
Note any signs of water damage near electrics — staining around sockets or switches near the kitchen, bathroom, or external walls may indicate water ingress near live wiring.

Take photographs of the consumer unit, any visible wiring, and any concerns you notice. These help the EICR inspector understand your concerns and can be useful when negotiating with the vendor if issues are found.

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02 · Buyer's Guide

Consumer Unit Age and Type — What to Look For

The consumer unit (often called the fuse box) is the heart of the electrical installation. Its age and type tell you a great deal about how the installation has been maintained and what work might be needed.

Modern split-load or RCBO board (post-2016) — compliant with the 17th Amendment to BS 7671. Look for a metal-clad consumer unit (required since 2016 under BS 7671:2008+A3:2015) with individual RCBOs or two RCDs. This is what you want to see.
White plastic split-load board (2000s–2016) — has RCD protection but may have a plastic casing that does not comply with current regulations. Functional and reasonably safe, but an EICR will likely note the non-compliant casing as a C3 (improvement recommended).
Older MCB-only board (1980s–1990s) — has miniature circuit breakers but no RCD protection. Regulation 411.3.3 of BS 7671 requires RCD protection on socket-outlet circuits. Absence of RCDs is commonly recorded as a C2 (potentially dangerous) observation. Budget for a consumer unit replacement at £400 to £900.
Rewirable fuse board (pre-1980s) — ceramic fuse holders with rewirable fuse wire. No RCD protection. The board itself is serviceable, but its presence strongly suggests the wiring has not been significantly updated. Likely to generate multiple C2 observations and possibly C1 findings if the associated wiring is original rubber-insulated cable.

03 · Buyer's Guide

Sockets, Switches, and Visible Wiring

The sockets and switches throughout the property are indicators of when the electrical work was last updated. While aesthetics are not the concern, the style and number of socket outlets give you useful data.

Round-pin sockets — two-pin round-pin sockets indicate pre-1947 wiring. Three-pin round-pin sockets indicate 1940s to early 1960s wiring. Both are signs the property requires a full rewire.
Modern 13A rectangular sockets — these have been standard since approximately 1947. The style and brand can indicate when they were installed. Switched sockets have been the norm since the 1960s.
Surface-mounted trunking — flat plastic surface-mounted cable trunking added on top of skirting boards is common when sockets have been added without full first-fix work. It is not necessarily dangerous but indicates the original installation lacked sufficient circuits.
Visible cables in loft and under floors — grey PVC-insulated twin and earth cable (T&E) is modern and fine. Older cloth or rubber-sheathed cable is a concern. Lead-sheathed cable should be considered a priority for replacement.

04 · Buyer's Guide

Evidence of DIY Electrical Work — What to Watch For

Uncertified DIY electrical work is one of the most common findings during house purchase inspections. Under Part P of the Building Regulations, most electrical work in a dwelling (including fitting new socket circuits, adding a consumer unit, or installing electric showers) must either be carried out by a registered competent person or be inspected and approved by the local authority building control.

Ask for electrical certificates — request copies of any Building Regulations certificates (Minor Works Certificates, Electrical Installation Certificates) for work done in the last 10 years. An extension with a new circuit, a kitchen refit, or an EV charger installation should all have certification. Missing certificates are a red flag.
Mismatched fittings — sockets or switches of different styles in the same room, or consumer unit breakers from different manufacturers fitted together, suggest DIY additions without proper design.
Non-standard wiring routes — cables run across ceiling joists without protection (required under the building zones specified in BS 7671 Section 522), or cables that enter socket back-boxes at unusual angles, suggest non-professional installation.
Garden electrical work — garden rooms, sheds, outbuildings with electricity, and external sockets all require proper certification. Uncertified sub-mains to outbuildings are common and potentially very dangerous.

If you discover uncertified electrical work after purchase, you may be required by your insurer or mortgage lender to have the work inspected and brought into compliance. The cost falls on you as the new owner. This is another reason to commission an EICR before exchange of contracts.

05 · Buyer's Guide

Common Problems in Pre-1966 Properties

Properties built before 1966 are particularly likely to have electrical installations that have reached the end of their serviceable life. The post-war housing boom produced millions of homes with rubber-insulated wiring that is now 60 or more years old.

Rubber-insulated wiring (VIR) — vulcanised india rubber insulation becomes brittle and cracks with age. The earthed conductors in early rubber-insulated systems were often bare copper, creating exposed live conductors in ceiling roses and junction boxes. This is a C1 (danger present) finding under BS 7671 Section 631.
No earth on lighting circuits — pre-1966 lighting circuits often have no earth conductor. This means metal light fittings cannot be safely earthed. Class II (double-insulated) fittings can be used as a workaround, but the underlying lack of earthing is a C2 observation.
TT earthing systems — older rural and some suburban properties may have a TT (earth electrode) earthing system rather than the modern TN-S or TN-C-S (PME). TT systems require RCD protection on all circuits under Regulation 411.5.3 of BS 7671 and often need the earth electrode to be tested and possibly replaced.
No main equipotential bonding — properties of this age frequently lack main protective bonding conductors to gas and water services. These are required under Regulation 411.3.1.2 of BS 7671 and their absence is a C2 observation.

For pre-1966 properties, budget for a full rewire as a likely cost. Partial remedial work on 60-year-old wiring is rarely cost-effective — electricians will often recommend a complete rewire rather than attempting piecemeal repairs on an installation that will continue to generate faults.

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06 · Buyer's Guide

Getting an EICR During the Purchase Process

The best time to commission an Electrical Installation Condition Report is after your offer has been accepted but before exchange of contracts. This gives you the information you need to negotiate and the option to withdraw if the findings are serious, without being legally committed to the purchase.

Who commissions it? — you commission the EICR at your own cost. The vendor must allow reasonable access for the inspection. Most vendors will cooperate as they understand it is a standard part of the purchase process for informed buyers. Cost is typically £150 to £400 for a typical three-bedroom house.
Who carries it out? — the EICR must be carried out by a qualified electrician registered with a competent person scheme (NICEIC, NAPIT, ELECSA, or equivalent). Verify qualifications and registration before booking.
What does it cover? — the EICR tests the condition of fixed electrical wiring, the consumer unit, earthing, bonding, and circuits throughout the property. It does not cover portable appliances. The inspector will carry out visual inspection and a series of electrical tests at each circuit.
Satisfactory vs Unsatisfactory — the EICR is classified as Satisfactory (no C1 or C2 observations) or Unsatisfactory (one or more C1 or C2 observations). A Satisfactory EICR with only C3 (improvement recommended) observations is a good result for an older property.

07 · Buyer's Guide

Negotiating on Electrical Issues

A poor EICR is not necessarily a reason to withdraw from a purchase, but it is strong grounds to renegotiate. Electrical remedial work has a quantifiable cost — use that to your advantage.

Get two or three quotes — before approaching the vendor, obtain written quotes for the remedial work from qualified electricians. This gives you a documented, evidence-based figure for your negotiation.
Price reduction vs vendor remediation — a price reduction is usually preferable. Vendor-managed remediation may be rushed or carried out by the cheapest available contractor. A price reduction gives you control over the quality of work after completion.
Retention — in some cases, your solicitor can arrange a retention — part of the purchase price held back at completion and released only when the remedial work has been completed and certified. This is less common but worth exploring for substantial works.
When to walk away — if the vendor refuses any concession and the remedial cost is significant (for example, a full rewire at £7,000 on a property where you have already negotiated to the maximum), withdrawing before exchange may be the right decision. You will lose your survey and EICR costs but avoid a much larger problem post-completion.

08 · Buyer's Guide

Rewire Costs to Factor Into Your Offer (2026 Prices)

A full rewire is the most significant electrical cost a buyer can face. Use these figures when assessing whether an offer price is fair and when negotiating with the vendor.

One-bedroom flat — £2,500 to £4,000. Typically 1 to 2 days' work with a team of two. Includes consumer unit replacement, new circuits, sockets, and switches.
Two-bedroom house or flat — £3,500 to £5,500. Two to three days. Redecoration after chasing channels in walls is an additional cost — budget £1,000 to £2,000 for basic redecoration.
Three-bedroom house — £4,500 to £7,000. The most common rewire scenario. Three to four days. Prices in London and the South East are typically £6,000 to £10,000.
Four-bedroom house — £6,000 to £10,000. Four to five days. Complex Victorian properties with solid masonry walls cost more due to the difficulty of chasing channels.
Consumer unit replacement only — £400 to £900. If the wiring is in good condition but the consumer unit is outdated, replacement alone is a much smaller cost.
RCD retrofit and bonding — £300 to £700. Fitting a new consumer unit with RCDs plus main bonding conductors, if the wiring itself is otherwise serviceable.

These costs do not include VAT (which is charged at 5% on residential rewires) or Building Regulations fees. Always ensure the electrician will provide an Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) on completion — this is the document you will need when you come to sell the property.

09 · Buyer's Guide

For Electricians: House Purchase EICR Work

House purchase EICRs are a growing and lucrative source of work. Buyers are increasingly commissioning EICRs as part of their due diligence, and a good EICR that reveals remedial work frequently leads directly to a rewire or consumer unit replacement quote.

Complete EICRs on Site

Use the Elec-Mate EICR app to complete the full report on your phone while still at the property. Send the PDF to the buyer before you leave. House purchase EICRs are often time-sensitive — buyers need the report quickly to progress their purchase.

Quote the Remedial Work Immediately

When C1 or C2 observations are found, quote the remedial work while still on site using the quoting tool. The buyer needs this quote to negotiate with the vendor — they will use whichever electrician gives them a quote quickly. Being first wins the work.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Electrical Checks When Buying a House

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Buying a House Electrical Checklist UK: What to Check Before You Buy

Key Takeaways

What to Check at a Property Viewing

Get the BS 7671 A4:2026 Cheat Sheet — free

Consumer Unit Age and Type — What to Look For

Sockets, Switches, and Visible Wiring

Evidence of DIY Electrical Work — What to Watch For

Common Problems in Pre-1966 Properties

Try Elec-Mate free for 7 days

Getting an EICR During the Purchase Process

Negotiating on Electrical Issues

Rewire Costs to Factor Into Your Offer (2026 Prices)

For Electricians: House Purchase EICR Work

Complete EICRs on Site

Quote the Remedial Work Immediately

Win house purchase EICR work with Elec-Mate

Frequently Asked Questions About Electrical Checks When Buying a House

Does a homebuyer's survey check the electrics?

What should I look for in the consumer unit when viewing a property?

How many sockets should each room have?

What are the warning signs of dangerous DIY electrical work?

What is the danger with pre-1966 rubber-insulated wiring?

How much does a full house rewire cost in the UK?

Can I use EICR findings to renegotiate the purchase price?

Continue reading

Electrical Survey When Buying

EICR Observation Codes Explained

How Electrical Issues Affect House Value

New Home Electrical Checklist

EICR Certificate App

What electricians say

One App for Everything!

Fantastic app for electricians

Absolutely amazing

Trusted by electricians across the UK

Complete House Purchase EICRs on Your Phone